Vinous – 88+
The 2015 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has quite a lifted bouquet that leans more toward black than red fruit, mixed with a light estuarine and oyster shell aromas that lend complexity and intrigue. The palate is medium-bodied with quite grippy tannins. This is an assertive, slightly oaky Clos des Chênes and as such, it just lacks a little terroir expression and finesse on the rather austere finish. I strongly suspect that given its showing in barrel and the performance of the Les Santenots, it just going through an awkward phase. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2035
Robert Parker – 95
Thierry Glantenay’s 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChÃªnes is superb, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, elderberry, wood smoke and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and complete, with a textural attack and fabulous depth and dimension, its tannins fine-grained and velvety, its finish long and intense. This benchmark Clos des ChÃªnes was immensely promising from barrel, and though it has tightened up a little after bottling, all its huge potential is intact: the only missing ingredient is time.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2065
JancisRobinson.com – 17
30% new oak (his maximum). Two equal parcels: planted 1938 and 2000. 30-40% whole bunch. Mid blackish crimson. He puts it at the end of the tasting because of its richness. Dense and, yes, a bit chestnutty! Racy and rich. Very well balanced. Velvety texture but no heaviness. Purple in every way. Masses of clean ripe fruit but with lift too. Long.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2045