Vinous – 95
Limpid gold. Powerful, mineral-accented aromas of dried orchard and pit fruits, brown butter, coconut, beeswax, chamomile and lemon pith are sharpened by a suggestion of candied ginger. Deeply concentrated pear skin, peach pit, orange marmalade, vanilla and toasted nut flavors pick up a smoky topnote as the wine opens up. There’s a lot here that reminds me of an aged Sauternes, but the acidity is fresh, giving the wine an intriguing push–pull expression of decadence and vibrancy. Finishes very long, chewy and precise, showing firm mineral and spicy cut and a touch of saltiness.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2035