Robert Parker – 94
The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots is rich, ripe, sensual and totally inviting. The fruit is round and very beautiful, but the wine is so young I can only imagine what might develop in the coming years. The fruit positively explodes on the finish, where floral, spiced overtones add the final layers of complexity. This is a stunning bottle in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Count me among the Burgundy fans who are thrilled Jean-Marie Fourrier chose not to pursue the career as a commercial airline pilot for which he studied. Fourrier began picking on September 17. The fruit was destemmed. Cuvaison lasted around 14 days but Fourrier commented that he had an unusually high (50%) amount of shot berries, which had the effect of extending the fermentations for another week or so. The malos started and ended early, hence Fourrier decided to bottle early as well. Per his usual practice, Fourrier left the wines on the lees with no racking until the wines were prepared for bottling. On average the wines saw 20% new oak. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029
Vinous – 91-93
(not yet racked or sulfited; this wine, the Champeaux and the Griottes were still in cask in November) Good medium red. Slightly reduced, musky aromas of blackberry, strawberry, crushed stone, smoke and herbs; comes across as rather cool. Then round, smoky and sweet on the palate, with the element of reduction coming through in the mouth. Still youthfully tight and stony, but with good perfume and nerve. Finishes gripping and long, with broad, dusty, mouthcoating tannins.